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Samsung LE40R88BD Clicking Relay

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stew86:
Hi there.

I also have a le40r88bd model and had the clicking noises with no power, no freeview, acid colours in movie mode, and anything connected to scart sockets wouls leave a picture trail, i developed a way to got the set to turn on easily instead of waiting ages for it to power up itself. which was to simply hold down the power button on the tv's panel until it powered up, this method usually took about 15 seconds. then i discovered that if i were to turn the tv to tuning channel 1 before i powered off it would restart 1st time if turned back on within a few hours of powering down.

any way i was fed up of all these silly procedures and rang a samsung repair centre who said £50 callout fee well i refused to pay someone my hard earnt cash to tell me my set was broke when i allready knew it was. so i turned to the internet and found this site after trying everything here like like replacing capacitors and shorting i still had no luck. as i could get into the service menu but resetting didnt change any of the root settings. so i got a copy of the service settings and manually went through every setting and noticed they were all messed up so i changed the settings to the recommended ones and DIDNT hit reset after i just turned tv off and back on. at last i the freeview was back online, movie mode was back to normal and picture trails had gone. powered it down and woke up this morning to a tv that turned on first time. i dont know if this info will solve some of your issues but thought it was only fair to post the method i used as the methods i allready saw on here were what got me started. i was about to skip the tv. cost of repair was £1.90 and an hours tinkering. Thanks guys

steveyjh:
Hi, just letting you all know that samsung sent out an engineer, they couldn't repair it on site as the capacitors breaking had caused the micro processor to break, that was a Monday got it back on the Friday all working fine and courtesy of samsung

panhead:
hi all , i had this fault and have replaced the nessacary caps . i now switch on and the unit fires up with a white band around 4 inches high at the bottom of the screen. has anybody had this fault before?

regards pete

Turnip:
Hi folks,

There's a thought about goods being fit for purpose, where known problems allow shops to rectify F.O.C after normal guarantee periods have expired.

Know of some, admittedly not with budget gear, but worth having a go perhaps -  Chris.

Griffmeister:
I followed the advice on this forum today and managed to save my Samsung LE40R87BDX. (For those who do not know the R86, R87 and R88 models are technically the same except for some cosmetic differences). I definitely recommend replacing the capacitors mentioned in this thread as I believe the EEPROM issue is a result of these faulty capacitors. This is a bit of a regurgitation of the information already on this thread but is how I did it.
 The EEPROM chip is fairly easy to identify . It's on the underside of the main board (green board) has IC803 printed next to it along with EEPROM. If you look closely one of the corners of the chip will have a dot on it. This identifies the 'top' of the chip. The legs are numbered 1-4 running down the left hand side as you look down at it and then 5-8 on the right hand side running up the chip. In other words, in number order anti clockwise from 1. Therefore legs 5 & 6 are the bottom right two legs.
 Initially I raised the main board and attempted to short these two legs with a screwdriver and this did not work. Probably because it was very awkward to do and I maybe slipped of the legs but anyway after many attempts this DID NOT WORK for me. What DID WORK was to solder a length of wire approx 5 inches long to each of the legs so I could re seat the board and short them with ease.
 Now with everything back in place and screwed down correctly and my two wires freely available I shorted them.
 I then plugged the TV in at the mains and did a count of 1,2 then opened the wires. In my case there was a lack of a click then a faint couple of clicks. The screen was completely dead but the power LED was solid now and not flashing.
 I followed Mike's button selection of INFO, MENU, MUTE and then POWER on the controller.
 Give it a few seconds to come on. According to Mike's post you can expect to see noise on the screen and the service menu. I was impatient and pressed the power button a second time, switching the TV back off before it had a chance to turn on. I then pressed the POWER button again and the TV came on. It came on to the freeview NO SIGNAL screen. If you are anything like me you'll just be glad the screen has come back on. I tested it by hooking up my PS3 via component cable and all was good.
 I left the wires on the EEPROM chip and taped up the ends so they are there in case this ever happens again.
I hope I have been clear and that this is easy to follow. I am extremely grateful to everyone who contributed on this thread and just wanted to share my success story.

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