Mulja tv repair portal
Equipment Repairs => LCD TV forum => Topic started by: Acrantophis on November 20, 2011,11:16:36
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Let me start by saying hello :051bye:
Now on to the problem.
I've been handed a Thomson 27LCDB03B that was reported as not always wanting to turn on. Anyway upon taking a look at it I've not been able to get it to power up at all, no power led, nothing.
Hunted high and low for a schematic and finally tracked one down and now I've done a little poking around.
I can confirm that I have 230VAC at PSU EMI board and a DC voltage of aprox 321Volts across the 100uF 450V caps, from there on the voltages appear to vanish. I don't appear to have a VCC voltage at pin 7 of U6301, nor do I appear to have any voltage present on the output stage of the transformer T6301 (pins 7 & 9).
I do have an electronics background just not in TV repairs so I was wondering if there is anyone on here who could work through this problem with me?
Thanks in advance.
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photo of psu diagram required b4 can help, but prob start up resisters or cap
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PDF service manual I have is now attached below.
Board manufacturer and Part N#; DARFON 48.B0090.001
Unfortunately I don't have a camera to take a picture of the board but there is an image of one here:- http://shop.sjstv.co.uk/ekmps/shops/sjstv/images/48.b0090.001-2444-p.jpg
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hi think you should check these first
r6303.6304,rb301,c6311,u6301,also voltage onto d6310 cathode,what volts on q6302base connection
regards
astracat
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Astracat, I may have been mistaken originally. Upon checking U6301 (VCC) pin 7 I discovered that I actually have 8.42Vdc when measured back to the ground of that device.
Q6302 voltages as follows:-
Base = 9.6vdc
Collector = 185vdc
Emitter = 9.57vdc
D6310 voltage measured at the Cathode back to Gnd is 0.57vdc
Visual inspections of the components listed show no outward signs of defect/failure, these also appear to verify as OK when tested with 2 seperate multi meters.
U6301 proving a little difficult to test. When I try and see what is happening with the aid of a scope I end up tripping my bench supply. I think that this is probably due to the 0V of the board not beign a true GND, I will try again tomorrow with our portable one tomorrow which should be back from calibration.
I don't know if the above helps at all or if you have any further suggestions but thanks so far for your help.
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hi
those resisters tend to go high in value ,dont think ic will fire up till about 9volts on it .should check why theres less voltage there also check caps to that supply.roughly 9volts there ic fires up then transformer takes over from then on to keep it running
regards
astracat
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Replaced the electrolytic caps C6203/C6310/C6311/C6312/C6313/C6314, I had read somewhere that these can fail, I had checked them and felt that they were good but given that we are talking pennies I figured it was cheap enough to replace them. No joy, still only just over 8V on VCC (pin 7 U6301).
Double checked the resistors R6301/R6303/R6304 by removing them from the circuit, happy to report that these all verify as OK and within their specified tolerences.
This repair is still a work in progress I had limited time available today and no time tomorrow so any updates will be posted on Friday assuming you are able to help me further.
:c017:
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hiya
think prob further back on pfc board check r6201a,b,c,d,fuse on end of d6201also r6212
g/luck
astracat
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TR6201 is a Metal Oxide Varistor, it could be faulty I suppose but I'm not sure as I'm able to measure a voltage after it within the circuit. A quick google search has failed to throw up any specs on the device in question though so if I was to replace it I am not sure what I would need, any ideas?
SCK-056L
Thanks again.
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ok check to make sure u7401 has power as that circuit supply 12v then inturn from u6401 for 5v both on audio psu board check caps on there as well.
astracat
ps assume you checked tact switch on tv?
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OK you lost me in terminology; ??Tact switch?? Do you mean the On/Off push button on the side of the TV, if so this is known to be good, checked the switching continuity of it as one of the first probable causes.
I have been testing the PSU PCB as an individual item leaving the TV at home and working on the board at work during my lunch breaks, I do not know if this will give me the correct results or not but I don't appear to have any voltages at the various connectors CN701 to CN703 which supply the volatges to the Main PCB/Audio PCB/Tuner PCB/etc.
It could well be that there is an issue with the MOV as I have a low ohms reading across it which I think is wrong because typically these should have a high resistance reading at a low voltage and a low resistance at a high voltage, assuming my memory is still serving me correctly and I have correctly identified the device.
Anyway I will investigate further tomorrow (Friday) and provide an update.
Thanks again for all your guidance.
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I might have discovered the cause, or I might not have. You never can tell with anything electronic until you actually replace it. Anyway I opted to lift pin 7 of U6301 to isolate it from the emitter of Q6302, upon measuring the voltage at the point where pin 7 would solder to I started seeing +15Vdc so it could be U6301 is faulty or something it is supplying pulling the VCC low. Anyway, I'm off out for a beer tonight so will look into this more tomorrow.
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hi
that ic is a self starting oscillator ,sounds like you found problem suggest change it first
g/luck
astracat
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:08: Hi five Astracat! Together we've cracked it, appreciate the help. :c017:
Changing U6301 has resolved the problem, TV now back up and running. Just to confirm for anyone looking to fix the same power supply showing the same symptoms and they should subsequently stumble upon this post. The dc voltage to pin 7 of U6301 should be around 14V dc when working correctly. If you have the skills to lift the pin 7 re-measure the voltage at the PCB sniff point and see if it goes up to 15V which supports the IC failure as I found.
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hiya
glad its sorted well done
astracat
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:08: Hi five Astracat! Together we've cracked it, appreciate the help. :c017:
Changing U6301 has resolved the problem, TV now back up and running. Just to confirm for anyone looking to fix the same power supply showing the same symptoms and they should subsequently stumble upon this post. The dc voltage to pin 7 of U6301 should be around 14V dc when working correctly. If you have the skills to lift the pin 7 re-measure the voltage at the PCB sniff point and see if it goes up to 15V which supports the IC failure as I found.
Hi, with interest I have been reading this tread as I also have a faulty power supply board. It also has a faulty U6301, apart from some other components. Where could you get the replacement for U6301? I am living in Coventry and have difficulties getting hold of these components.
I have put the list of components that I need here:
Q6301 -> STW12NK80Z
U6301 -> UC3843A
R6310 1206J10 (smd) smd size 1206, 10 Ohm (1/8 watt min.)
R6311 20K (smd) (1/8 watt min.)
R6327 1K (smd) (1/8 watt min.)
D6304 4146 (smd) (1N4148 Fairchild)
R6312 -> 0,27 Ohm 2 Watt
R6301 -> 68K 2 Watt
Q6302 -> MPSR44 (MPSA44G ON Semiconductors)
D6303 -> 4148 (smd) (1N4148 Fairchild)
Optional:
CY6201 -> 2200P, 250V (YL)
CY6202 -> 2200P, 250V (YL)
If anyone could help me out getting these components together, I would be very grateful, or even if somebody could help me with soldering of these smd components, that would be fantastic.
some pictures of my PSU can be found here:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Album=WQDMNCI3
thanks,
Michael
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Mike, are you looking to make the repairs or do you want someone to repai rthe board for you, your post is confusing as you ask where to source parts but then go on to ask if someone could help do the de-soldering and soldering. I can tell you where to get the SOIC8 device U6301 from and probably most of the other items, but I don't like seeing people waste money buying items that they don't need to so before we go any further can I ask how you have concluded so many items need to be replaced?
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Hi Acrantophis,
let me try to tell the story in short. I was living in Sri Lanka and brought the TV earlier from the Netherlands (Bought accross the border from a Germany's Media Markt for 1100Euro). It's a 30LCDB03B, which has the same PSU board as the 27LCDB03B.
At a certain moment, when switching on the satellite receiver, the TV (connected via scart) gave a bang and a flash and was broken. I found that the U6301 was burned, it's used for automatically switching on the TV when it gets an (external) power on signal. Together with a friend from the Netherlands, who is in electronics, he suggested to replace the parts and some surrounding ones to be sure. However, I couldn't get the parts in Sri Lanka so got a replacement PSU from one UK tv parts web site. I replaced the PSU with the new one and there was no need anymore to get the PSU board fixed. Meanwhile, we have moved to the UK and so the TV. After a short while, the TV broke down again, it starts, but shortly it sort of powers down. So in fact, I have 2 defect PSU boards. I think the power boards are a common problem for these thomson TV's. You also don't find the brand in the common UK electronics shops (anymore).
Recently, I could get a same TV (27LCDB03B) from gumtree for just one pound, which is now playing. Has only a slightly problem with the LCD screen, kind of memory/burned in problem.
Then I found your tread and was wondering whether I could get my old TV fixed again as it is a nice piano black 30inch one.
I am not an electronics myself, but have some basic knowledge. I am always kind of challenged to get my equipment fixed again and oftenly go on forums to get the problem solved. I Have done washing machines, the power supply of our microwave, rewinded the tweeters of my hifi speakers, repaired our dishwasher, fixed the ceramic cooker, DVD player, my stereo tuner, do my own car repairs, toys of our kids, have done the water and electrics in our house in Sri Lanka, etc, etc, etc. Just as a few examples to mention the type of person that I am in that regards.
So the TV is now under our bed, waiting to get alive again. I am reluctant to just throw it away without trying to fix it first myself. I could do the soldering, but the U6301 might be a a bit too challenging. However, I can give it a try. I also could send you both PSU's if you like, but for the second one, I haven't investigated the reason. It could be just the capacitors as mentioned often as reason for power failures.
thanks,
Michael.
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Mike, here is how I would suggest removing the damaged I.C. but remember not to over heat the solder to much as you may end up damaging the tracks of the PCB.
You will need:-
UC3843A - Obtainable here:- http://uk.farnell.com/unitrode/uc3843ad8/pwm-controller-smd-3843-soic8/dp/1101425
or
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/current-mode-pwm-controller/6899954/
Soldering Iron with a fine tip
Solder
Possibly a solder sucker or some desoldering wick
A scalpel blade N#11 or other suitably sized blade that can be inserted under the device.
A fine tipped pair of tweazers to position & hold the new device in place whilst soldering.
What to do:-
Firstly - note the orientation of the device. Pin 1 is identified by either a notch at one end of the device or a spot. This should be at the top of the device and pin 1 will always be the top left pin.
Solder all of the legs of the device along one side so that they are all shorted together. Remove heat.
Take scalpel blade - re-apply heat to solder so that it becomes molten and then ease blade under device. Whilst solder is still molten ease device up away from board on this side. Repeat the above for the other side, once the device is lifted away from the board on either side you can then re-heat solder both sides of the device and hopefully remove the compenent from the board.
Clean up any excess solder from the pads with the aid of the de-solder wick or solder sucker, try not to lift the pads by excessive exposure to heat though.
Take the new device with the tweazers and position it so that the legs line up with the pads and the device is in the correct orientation as mentioned at the beginning regarding the removal of the faulty device. Solder the new one in place being sure not to short any of the pins together, (if you do use the de-soldering wick or solder sucker to remove excess if you can not remove it with the soldering iron itself).
Regarding the other board I would certainly suggest replacing the electrolytic capacitors they only cost pennies so its hardly going to break the bank. If you need me to see if I can identify part numbers for you from RS or Farnell just shout and I will see what I can do.
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hi Acrantophis,
thanks for your extensive explanation. I have been on the web site of farnell and placed most of the parts, except the smd resistors (was thinking to use conventional ones), in my shopping basket. In some cases I needed to order a minimum of 5 or 10 pieces of a component. That's fine but I am with about 12GBP still under the minimum order amount of 20GBP.
Therefore I was thinking first to try to replace the capacitors on my other board. That will cost indeed just a pound or so. If that would solve the problem with that board, I am there already. I can then still decide later on to try to repair the first board or not.
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Mike, if you can get the parts through RS then you could collect from their trade counter in Birmingham, assuming it is not to far for you to travel. :dubbio:
Duddeston Mill Road,
Duddeston Mill Industrial Estate,
Birmingham,
B8 1AP
Alternatively the U6301 device can be sourced through Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UC3843BD1G-UC3843B-PWM-Controller-Current-Mode-52kHz-SOIC8-/300617498920?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item45fe330128
I looked at the Maplins website when I was searchign for them but couldn't find them, however they may be able to help you for the other parts and the surface mount resistors.
I'll keep checking the post daily so if you need any help just ask.
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hi Acrantophis,
ebay, never thought about that, how genius.
I am going today to maples for the capacitors and will see what the result of that for the second board is.
Then subsequently going for the other parts, ordered already two (one spare) of these U6301 devices through the ebay link.
will keep you updated.
thanks,
Michel
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Today I went to Maplin (not maples, I always confuse the two names) to buy the capacitors, but they had not much of them in stock, so I went to RS components in Nuneaton. I have bought all of the capacitors, except the C6311 of 150uF which was not in their catalogue. According to the service manual, the value should be 100uF, so I got the 100uF ones instead. Same like the value of C6314.
What do you think, is it wise to just use the 100uF or still go for the 150uF one? There must be a reason that they have used 150uF in production, rather than the 100uF as designed?
I also tried to get some of the other components from my list in order to repair the first board. So far, I only got the transistor Q6302 MPSA44G, they didn't have the Q6301 STW12NK80Z, so I left that for later. The U6301 should come trough ebay. Then I still need to get hold of the smd diodes, which was a bit difficult for me to order as I don't know about sizes etc. They also come in large(r) package sizes or on roll. Resistors I should be able to get through Maplin as I was thinking to use conventional ones.
thanks,
Michael.
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I have replaced the capacitors, for the 150uF I have put 100uF and 47uF in parallel.
It looks like the TV is a bit more stable, at least a picture comes up, but still after a few seconds it switches off again. Led remains green and I can turn off the TV by remote as well.
I expect the U6301 to arrive shortly, so I will just try to replace it and see what happens then.
I haven't swapped and tried the PSU from the other good working TV yet, just to exclude that the failure may come from another part inside the TV. Will be another step when replacing the U6301 gives no good result either.
to be continued...
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Mike, what is the baord number? The board I repaired had capacitor values as per the schematics/circuit diagram. As manufacturers can change components from time to time I'm wondering if you have a different board rev level.
For the diodes marked 4148, like D6303 (located between the emmiter of Q6302 and pin 7 of U6301) try LL4148. Effectively a standard 1N4148 diode but in a surface mount package. Again ebay is your friend for these :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LL4148-SMD-minimelf-Diode-Pack-100pcs-/290605876056?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43a975c358
I would only use Maplins (Maples) out of desperation and wanting to be further dissapointed as they are 1 step short of being useless and also over priced for parts.
Good luck
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Boardnumbers may differ in versions. They are currently built in, so can't check the numbers.
I didn't receive the U6301's yet, so meanwhile I have exchanged some boards from the good working TV into the faulty TV and vice versa.
It looks like the powerboard of my faulty TV is fine as my good working TV has no problems with it. When I put the power board of my good TV into my faulty TV, I still have the same problem.
So I started to exchange the connector board. still same problem with my faulty TV
I exchanged the main board from the good working Tv into the fault TV, still same problem.
However, I had some situation where the faulty TV worked for some minutes or so and then shuts off. Power led still giving green. Remote controll not working except for the switch off button, greed led turns green. I can restart the TV afterwards by pushing the power button again.
What actually happends is the following.
The faulty TV turns on normally, picture and sound come on.
Then after some time (between 30secs and 2 minutes) the screen disappears, like it blows up, some red colour is visible and after that you only see some grey light on the back ground. I don't know if this is the back light still functioning or not. Also the audio disappears at the same time.
What I am thinking is that the power supply is overloaded at some point where it shuts down or something. Or the main board detects some fault and shuts down. No idea to be honest.
I just replaced the audioboard to test. Same problem.
I think I will try to replace the invertor board. May it overloads the powerboard somehow so that it fails to supply the power.
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I heave been testing a bit more arround and start to think that the power supply is underdimensioned for this 30inch TV. When the TV is brand new, the powersupply will stand the consumption, but when it gets older maybe not. However, I must say, when I used the connection board and main board from the good functioning TV in my faulty one, it took a bit more time before the TV shutted off, but still it was not functioning properly.
What else to try? I will check the board numbers and components of the different PSU's. May be there is a difference between the 27 and 30 inch version.
PS: I swapped the PSU permanently, so my good functioning Tv is now playing on the PSU of my faulty TV just for endurance testing purposes without any problem.
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The problem could be that the circuit diagram I attached does not match your board and so could misleading, it would also explain why you have a different capacitor value to that shown. Having looked at the block diagrams for the 27 and the 30 inch TV's I would say that there are certainly difference between the two sets, the 27 has the audio, DC+DC, and PFC circuits all on the one board, where as the 30 has a seperate audio board. The connectors/wiring looms will also be different.
Perhaps opening a different post may be the way forward as there may be someone who might know more then me.
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Short reply to what you write,
in both Tv's, the audio is separated from the PSU board, unless your's is integrated, then there are differences. I must say, there are some differences between the boards, but they look compatible. Nevertheless, I will see what else I can try, first I will check whether there really no differences between the power boards.
Thanks,
Michel
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Hi Acrantophis,
Today I received ( a bit late) 2 pieces of a the 3843B ic's.
However, I can't identify pin number 1. The IC doesn't have a spot or something similar. It only has, apart from the number indication, a white line at one of the top sides. Would that indicate the top of the IC. I think it must, otherwise there is no other indication how to find pin number 1?
I have found that my TV plays when the source (e.g. a DVD player) is put on pause, so accepting still images. As soon as I resume the DVD, the TV shuts off. It looks like when the TV has to handle moving pictures, it shuts off, but still images, or when the DVD starts it's screensaver, it keeps functioning. I also can play for instance a music CD. Also then the TV keeps playing, it's only when playing moving pictures from DVD or other sources.
Looks like the PSU is incapable to supplying enough power???
What do you think?
I am trying to repair my original PSU. However, however removing the U6301 was already a difficult thing, as one of the pads is lifted. I will try to place the new u6301 very carefully.
thanks,
Michel
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Yep, that will be the pin 1 indicator, different manufacturers will exercise different methods. What pad has lifted, if it breaks off when re-attaching the new device you will need to patch the circuit, which could be a ball ache. Not sure what to advise regarding the video issue though as I am a novice when it comes to TV repairs.
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Hi,
I have managed to replace the U6301. I have checked all the pins and their connections to the first adjacent components and they seem to be fine. Soldering is an easier task then desoldering.
Meanwhile, I also replaced the 2 diodes D6303 and D6304 (I am now only left with 98 of these) and transistor Q6302.
Now I am trying to get hold of Q6301 a STW11NB80. RS components didn't have it in stock in their company shop although their website says they would. I am trying to get it through the person of ebay from which I bought the transistor and diodes.
Then next are the resistors.
Slowly but steady going...
Currently I have the power board of the other TV in my faulty TV. I have found that if I keep the TV on, also after it his been shut down, the green led still burns and I can see the back light is also still on, then after a few minutes or so, after I have switched on the satellite receiver, the TV continues playing (after a restart).
It is thus when the TV is cold, it shuts down, only after a while, when it is warm?, it keeps functioning. I found another thread that describes the same issue. http://www.fixya.com/support/t3580460-thomson_27lcdb03b_now_seems_need but no solution given unfortunately.
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So you've had some success with the replacing of the IC in that you didn't break any of the tracks. When I was researching the faulty PSU I had I discovered that whilst the manufacturer is kinown as Thomson within Europe, they also trade as RCA in America. So you might find the answers you seek by widening the search to include RCA LCD TV's.
From the symptoms you are describing I can't help but feel that the problem lies with a capacitor (Electrolytic type) this could even be one on the main board or inverter as opposed to the PSU card. You would need to visually inspect these to see if they are either bulging or burst, any that look suspect would be worth changing. I'll see if I can find anything further for you and will post it here, hopefully you'll be able to get it working soon.
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I have replaced the STW12NK90Z (as alternative for the STW11NB80 or STW12NK80Z).
I tested/measured the resistor of 68K ohm, 2 watts. It seems to be fine. The 0.27 ohm 2 watts one is dead. I am trying to find it but it seems to be a difficult job. If anyone knows how/where to get it?
then I only need to find the smd resistors.
thanks,
Michel
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This is a 0.27ohms (0.27R) 3Watt device as opposed to the 2 Watt spec'd, provided it is the dimensional size it shouldn't be a problem, if anything it will be better as it can dispate more heat.
http://shop.conrad-uk.com/components/passive-components/resistors/smd-resistors/smd-resistors-rest-of/428874.html
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I'm a bit late but, that's a wirewound resistor, Acrantophis. It may work, but its internal inductance may be too high to accurately sense the fast-changing switching current. The power supply may not be stable (whine/fizz) or may not regulate. A low inductance metal film resistor is the best choice. I don't know the size of the original but a 2512 SMD resistor might be alright - this one is 0.3R and should do:
http://uk.farnell.com/bourns/crm2512-fx-r300elf/resistor-2512-0r300-1-2w/dp/1865266
Fitting a 3R in parallel would trim the resistance closer to spec. if needed.
Alternatively you can piggy back a 0.56R and a 0.51R (in parallel):
http://uk.farnell.com/bourns/crm2512-fx-r510elf/resistor-2512-0r510-1-2w/dp/1865267 and
http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/erj1trqfr56u/resistor-2512-1w-1-0r56/dp/1717955
Matt
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Sorry to interupt, the resistors of 68K and 0.27 ohm are conventional (through hole) ones.
The smd ones that I referred to, are other ones that I still need to find later on.
So I need a 2 watt 0.27 ohm conventional resistor.
You can see the one in question over here:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/GroteFoto-KYJR7N7R.jpg
it's the green one.
thanks
Michael
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Matt, I was intentionally steering clear of Farnell due to minimum order values but it looks like the information I gave was bad anyway, so thanx for highlighting this. :oops:
Apologies Michael, I wrongly assumed that you were after a surface mount item, my bad, these might be a more suitable option http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-Ceramic-Cement-Power-Resistor-5W-0-27-ohm-/160575692046?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item25630e9d0e
As you advise the 68K device measured OK I've not looked for that.
Regarding the SMD resistors you are looking to replace at some point, if you can find the relevant section on the schematics it will tell you whether they are 0603 or 0805 devices, see NOTES at the bottom left of each section. Schematics here - http://www.tv.quuq.org/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5757.0;attach=2959 these should be easy to obtain from RS or other sources
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Hi Acrantophis,
it's hard to find that 0.27 ohm 2 watt resistor. The link you gave directs to hong kong. Sounds strange that I have to go to the other side of the world to find a resistor. So I will keep that open for now and focus on the smd resistors first.
The ones are:
R6310 1206j10, I understood this means size 1206 and value 10ohm.
R6311 20k
R6327 1k
The sizes of these 2 I can't find on the schema, I only can see that they are a bit smaller than the R6310.
I checked an overview of smd sizes on the internet and I think they should be 0805 type.
Will go to RS in Nuneaton and see what they have.
BTW: the 2 watt resisitors are some kind of glued against the heat sink. It's some kind of compound but then hardened. How is this product called because I might need it later when I have to replace the 0.27 ohm 2 watt resistor? They probably need cooling.
Thanks again,
Michael
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I came just back from RS components and bought the following smd resistors:
for the R6310 1206j10, I bought item number 6934502 (thin film)
for the R6311 20k, I bought item number 6791077 (thick film)
for the R6327 1k, I bought item number 2230427 (thick film)
As I don't know about differences beteen type of resistors, would these resistors be ok to use?
BTW, I found this link:
http://www.wiltsgrove.co.uk/product-details.php?catid=0027&subid=1104&itemid=FR-2051
No idea whether this resistor will do as replacement for the 0.27 ohm 2 watt resistor. Will try to contact them.
thanks,
Michael
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Quote:- BTW, I found this link:
http://www.wiltsgrove.co.uk/product-details.php?catid=0027&subid=1104&itemid=FR-2051
Be advised that this company also trades under another name but at the same address. Without knowing the component make up it would be difficult to say whether it would be OK or not. http://www.121spares.co.uk/contact-us.php
Just a thought, as you're only after the one resistor, have you any local TV repair shops? You could ask in store to see if they can source the component and sell it to you.
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Hi, I have replaced all the parts. For the 2 watt resistor, I have put 2 others in parallel which gave me 0.25 Ohm. I tried the power board, but nothing, even the standby led didn't come on.
So I need to do some testing probably in the primary section of the board. I don't know whether I will be able to find it and whether it is worth it to continue investigating as I have spent already too much time on this thing. I see it more as just a challenge, but also that has its limits.
Keep you updated,
Michael
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Last update,
I haven't tried to investifgate further on the powerboard.
What I have done however, is exchanged the video board from the 27" TV into the 30" one.
I thought already that this would be the problem for shutting down the TV. I noticed that when I switched the TV to 3:4 ratio, the TV didn't shut off as frequent as when I had it on 16:9 ratio. When the TV shutted down, the back light was still visible, so it couldn't be the inverter board, which wasn't compatible between the 2 TV's anyway. The 30" had more chips on the inverter board to cover the larger area to be lighted.
The 30" TV now doesn't shut down anymore and the 27" one plays currently on the video board of the 30" one. Probably the video board has become "weak" and could't power the larger screen anymore.