Mulja tv repair portal
Equipment Repairs => LCD TV forum => Topic started by: AdyAde on December 02, 2009,11:19:38
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Hi all,
I found this site after doing a google search and have found some interesting info.
Basically i have a Samsung LE40R88BD which wont power on, just keeps trying to switch itself on then off with a clicking sound, i replace all 6 capacitors to no avail.
After reading on here the eeprom can become corrupted, i have found the eeprom 246C256BN.
I'm having trouble finding pin 5 and 6 to short as there are no numbers on the eeprom itself?
Any help appreciated
Thanks
Adrian
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Update, tried shorting pin 5 and 6 but no different still get the clicking on and off.
Does anyone have a spare board model BN41-00813D-MP1.0
Thanks
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have you followed the right sequence as wrote down to check
the settings it all listed down on pre
Re: Samsung LE40R87BD LCD TV - relay clicking repeatedly but wont start
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2009,06:16:08 » Quote
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Hi John and RB
Set now up and running. It was a case of a corrupted eeprom. Thanks John for the info.
For anyone with the same problem the procedure is as follows.
On this model the eeprom in question is IC 1803 (24C256) 8 pin smd and is located on the underside of the main board near the common interface. The clock and data pins are pins 5 and 6 and are identifiable by the 100 ohm smd resistors connected to each of them. Fit a shorting link (on long wires) between the pins. Reassemble the chassis. Switch on and then remove the short. Bring the set out of standby. Now access the service mode as follows-
Using the remote control, switch to standby, press info, menu, mute and power. The set should start and display the service menu. Using scroll keys select item 8 and enter by scrolling right. Select "tuner" and set to auto. Revert to previous screen by pressing menu. Now scroll to "reset" and enter by scrolling right. The set will revert to standby. Power back on and tune in stations. Thanks again tv john for the information.
vious pages its not a quick job
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Hi Sparky.
Thanks for the reply, yes i found that post after i had trouble locating pin 5 & 6, anyway i think i used the right 2, the 2 pins i shorted were leading up to a 101ohm, i also used a small screwdriver to short but weren't sure how long to keep shorting for, so as soon as the tv was switched on i removed the screwdriver.
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Another update, can anyone confirm that i did short the correct 2 pins (sorry about the pic i should have used my pc rather than laptop but probably wouldn't have been any better :laug:)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/6953/eeprom.th.jpg) (http://img442.imageshack.us/i/eeprom.jpg/)
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Hi Guys,
Just wanted to a say a big thank you for this thread. Just followed it and fixed my TV :clap:. I had all the caps replaced and I was a tad annoyed that it didn't work. Just spent a good 2 hours trying this out and suddenly it sparked into life.
AdyAde you've got the right 2 pins (beside the com interface as said before) just keep trying. It took a while for it to kick in on mine.
This is why I love the Internet.
Thanks again.
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Hi Guys,
Just wanted to a say a big thank you for this thread. Just followed it and fixed my TV :clap:. I had all the caps replaced and I was a tad annoyed that it didn't work. Just spent a good 2 hours trying this out and suddenly it sparked into life.
AdyAde you've got the right 2 pins (beside the com interface as said before) just keep trying. It took a while for it to kick in on mine.
This is why I love the Internet.
Thanks again.
How did you short yours mate, and how long did you keep them shorted for? Can you tell me what you actually done?
Also if anyone is local to london middlesex and wants to earn some beer tokens by doing this for me it will be appreciated
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d'nt short it out with a screw driver
solder on some leads its safer
that way
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Ok mate will do, do i short it then plug the tv in then unplug tv or leave it short for a while?
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I didn't fancy my chances on soldering something so small so I used a small flat head screw driver with a really long handle.
I unscrewed the board and had it angled so that I could see the other side of the chip as the pins are facing away from you when it's in place.
I had to have the screw drivee on the pins then plug in the TV and then switch it on with the remote. After a couple of seconds the screen came on.
I was a bit mad last night and wanted it fixed so it wasn't the best planned job.
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With my TV as soon as it's plugged in it switches itself on & off, i have no control over the remote or buttons on the tv itself :dubbio:
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Yeah that's what mine was doing the first 20 or so times but once in seemed to make a slightly different noise and that's when it worked.
It's was a pretty tricky balancing act as the pins are so small and the board in hanging loose.
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Thanks, going to give it another try shortly, do i leave it shorting for a while or literally a second?
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good luck wait for stuff hiting the fan
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Still didn't work :(
So does anyone have the above board for sale or know where i can get one? flattvparts are out of stock, ebay have one but although it has the same number BN41-00813D mp1.0 on my metal casing i have LE40r88bd SPE, the one on ebay is LE40R86BDX - SNE will this work?
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there is always another option, if you haven’t got a clue about electronics, instead of guessing at the fault and risking writing off your set, you could always take it to your local TV repair shop many of which have decades of experience, as supporting your local TV engineer (the few of us that are left) will stop us all going bust, taking up drink (well more drink than usual) and starving to death.
Just a thought
Daz
ahh that felt better, off down pub
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there is always another option, if you haven’t got a clue about electronics, instead of guessing at the fault and risking writing off your set, you could always take it to your local TV repair shop many of which have decades of experience, as supporting your local TV engineer (the few of us that are left) will stop us all going bust, taking up drink (well more drink than usual) and starving to death.
Just a thought
Daz
ahh that felt better, off down pub
Quite simply because there aren't any local repair shops in my immediate area, the nearest is 22 miles away, and when asked how much they said £65 just to take the back off !
The TV isn't 1080 so isn't worth an awful lot anyway.
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Hi all
I have one on the bench at the moment. The usual caps in psu problem. But I can't get it to restart to reset the eeprom settings. I'm guessing that shorting sda and sclk pins doesn't really reset these tvs or there is another fault causing it to trip off.
Does anyone have a hex dump, the nearest I got so far is a le32r72 which is an older chassis, so I want be using that. I try reading it and rest it to 0xff next week and see if that helps.
Quite simply because there aren't any local repair shops in my immediate area, the nearest is 22 miles away, and when asked how much they said £65 just to take the back off !
AdyAde I'm surprised that there aren't any closer as your in Middlesex.
If you want us to have a look, I'm probably only 10 miles away (Egham) and we don't charge to take the back off, just ask how much we can charge before needing to give you a call or quote (saves us taking the back off twice). Maybe we should charge as people do abuse it, costing us money and time? We are a bit part time these days, we have to make a living elsewhere, but we are still kicking. Maybe I should join Daz for a drink :brinda:
Sean
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try this it does work
sparky
Re: Samsung LE40R87BD LCD TV - relay clicking repeatedly but wont start
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2009,06:16:08 » Quote
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Hi John and RB
Set now up and running. It was a case of a corrupted eeprom. Thanks John for the info.
For anyone with the same problem the procedure is as follows.
On this model the eeprom in question is IC 1803 (24C256) 8 pin smd and is located on the underside of the main board near the common interface. The clock and data pins are pins 5 and 6 and are identifiable by the 100 ohm smd resistors connected to each of them. Fit a shorting link (on long wires) between the pins. Reassemble the chassis. Switch on and then remove the short. Bring the set out of standby. Now access the service mode as follows-
Using the remote control, switch to standby, press info, menu, mute and power. The set should start and display the service menu. Using scroll keys select item 8 and enter by scrolling right. Select "tuner" and set to auto. Revert to previous screen by pressing menu. Now scroll to "reset" and enter by scrolling right. The set will revert to standby. Power back on and tune in stations. Thanks again tv john for the information.
John.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2009,09:41:35 by Contrast John
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Thanks Sparky for info.
I did try all that before posting. I used a length of cable to short pin 5-6 at start up. I tried all sorts of timings, with no luck (several hours later). :wallbash: So I guess shorting pins is not 100%
I read the eeprom today and then reset it to 0xff that worked. The system reloaded it with I guess the factory defaults for this model. I then reset via service mode, the tuner was already on auto. I had to half remove the ic to rewrite it as the system held the Write Protect High, disabling any writes :lamo:
I've attached the eeprom dumps for the non-working and working eeproms. The working one should be tuned in and setup for London tv channels.
A note of warning to any DIY person, this particular TV has an extremely dangerous power supply as it supplies the back lights with 1.5KV at 72mA. :diablo: The hazard isn't that obvious(only a couple of small warning HV stickers) and this is the first LCD I've seen with one, normally they us 12V or 24V and use the inverter transformers to up the voltage to the CCL.
Sean
IC803 working dump for Samsung LE40R88BD is le40r88_wk.e2p
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hi all, shorted out the eeprom as in the below quote, the standby light stays on constant, and the blue light under the samsung light flasshes in response to pressing of buttons on the remote. screen still does not come on?
(reverts to the standby light flashing when plug switched off and on again)
in the quote below it says to press info, menu etc, does this mean press one after the other or all at same time?
any help appreciated.
cheers keith
try this it does work
sparky
Re: Samsung LE40R87BD LCD TV - relay clicking repeatedly but wont start
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2009,06:16:08 » Quote
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Hi John and RB
Set now up and running. It was a case of a corrupted eeprom. Thanks John for the info.
For anyone with the same problem the procedure is as follows.
On this model the eeprom in question is IC 1803 (24C256) 8 pin smd and is located on the underside of the main board near the common interface. The clock and data pins are pins 5 and 6 and are identifiable by the 100 ohm smd resistors connected to each of them. Fit a shorting link (on long wires) between the pins. Reassemble the chassis. Switch on and then remove the short. Bring the set out of standby. Now access the service mode as follows-
Using the remote control, switch to standby, press info, menu, mute and power. The set should start and display the service menu. Using scroll keys select item 8 and enter by scrolling right. Select "tuner" and set to auto. Revert to previous screen by pressing menu. Now scroll to "reset" and enter by scrolling right. The set will revert to standby. Power back on and tune in stations. Thanks again tv john for the information.
John.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2009,09:41:35 by Contrast John
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anybody??
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wooohoooo!!! sucess! keep trying folks, i must have done it 50 times before the set fired up, it is currently searching for channels!!! hope i dont have to fiddle with many settings! or ill be back!
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I'm in this boat. I've tried ALOT of times. I get everything as described except for any kind of life in the screen. At no point (during the shorted startup, the normal startup or the service mode palaver ! ) does the backlight come on. Am I right in thinking, if I never see the backlight even attempt to come on I'm not going to get anywhere. I ask because I've get the feeling the service is mode is there but I can't see it. This TV has made me paranoid !
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Hi,
Are you sure the inverter is supplied with the right voltage and attemps to start?If not, could be defective,unfortunately.Try to put close to a transformer a neon small bulb,when you power up the TV;if the bulb lights up for a while the inverter could be safe;if so,think about the micom!
Happy new year!Michael
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Happy New year. :brinda:
The one I repaired, the backlight never came on, just the blue led on and then flashed and off again. Relay clicking in and out from 10sec to 1min. All voltages read correct apart from the the 1.5KV inverter supply which didn't fire up.
After reprogramming, erase(0xffh) or replacing EEPROM with a new blank one, TV worked fine. I think shorting the pins only works if you get lucky. The timing of the short maybe critical as I use to regularly reset laptops EEPROM for asset companies and found the timing/sequence was important. But didn't find the sweet spot of the one I had in and needed to clear the bench.
Good luck
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Hi all,
Just wanted to say many many thanks to all the people who responded to this post...
Switched the TV on this morning and was greeted by nothing but a clicking sound. Did a quick Google, and found it was a common problem with these sets.
Before I go on, I'd like to let you know that I'm a complete novice with electronics, if something's whirly and oily then I'm fine..... electrickery is witchcraft to me.
Anyway, found loads of info on various sites relating to popped inferior capacitors, so I whipped the back off the set and hey presto, black stuff leaking out of 2 and 2 more ready to burst. they were as follows; CM817, CM811, CM812, CS806 (10v 1000uF) all on the power supply.
Toddled off to Maplin, where they had two 16v 1000uF's left in stock, and the local TV repair shop (who charged me £6 for another two :mad: ) Went home and popped them in.
Turned TV on, nothing... aaargh, more googling..... came across this site and the info on the eeprom.
I soldered a bit of wire to each of the pins, and after about 8 attempts (various timing of removing the short) the set burst into life. For those that want to know the timing of this, I plugged the set in and removed the wire after 1 sec.
So once again, a big thanks to everyone, esp. Sparky who put up the info on the chip. I owe you a virtual beer matey.
Many thanks, Mike.
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Thanks all, it's now working. Owe you all - big time. This is as detailed as I can go ( after replacing 4 caps ). The critical part seems to be the delay ( see point 3 ), thanks to Mike for this ( my name's Mike - a lot them around ).
1. Short out the eeprom pins 5 & 6 ( the two legs with the resistors ).
2. Turn on the power. - Instead of the usual noticeable relay click, you get a faint click, the backlight stays off, nothing else happens.
3. Wait around 1-2 secs ( anything longer than this NEVER seemed to work ).
4. Remove the short
5. Press info,menu,mute, then power - In that order individually, one at a time.
6. TV should come on with noise picture and the service menu.
7. Navigate to reset to go back to factory defaults and you're away....
Cheers again everybody - I was on the brink of giving in to Samsung....
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Hey guys im novice to this stuff but have the same problem with my samsung ln46a650a,power cycling as soon as it gets power, will the steps listed in this thread apply to me as well? im not about to spend 400 to samsung on a tv that is 1 yr 6 months old....any help would be much appreciated.
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Hi,
Does anyone know what to do as I have changed the capacitors and it still does exactly the same, still clicks on and off? I rang samsung and they dont giive a monkeys. Please help!!! Im TV less
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hi try this
Thanks all, it's now working. Owe you all - big time. This is as detailed as I can go ( after replacing 4 caps ). The critical part seems to be the delay ( see point 3 ), thanks to Mike for this ( my name's Mike - a lot them around ).
1. Short out the eeprom pins 5 & 6 ( the two legs with the resistors ).
2. Turn on the power. - Instead of the usual noticeable relay click, you get a faint click, the backlight stays off, nothing else happens.
3. Wait around 1-2 secs ( anything longer than this NEVER seemed to work ).
4. Remove the short
5. Press info,menu,mute, then power - In that order individually, one at a time.
6. TV should come on with noise picture and the service menu.
7. Navigate to reset to go back to factory defaults and you're away....
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Thanks,
I've been trying this for a little while now, the relay clicking has stopped but no picture as of yet. Does the picture come on as soon as you release the short on the eprom or after you have completed the sequence on the remote control?
Thanks again
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when it trys to come on 2 seconds remove short
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I have just replied on another thread for the LE40R87D that has the same issues, it is over 2 years old, out of warranty and they have recognised a fault with them.
I rang samsung today and they are repairing it free of charge, I only had to mention the clicking noises tryimg to start tv.
Samsung cust services 08457267864
good luck :ciao:
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good luck get it writing or face a big bill
never known samsung to do any free repairs
after 12 mths
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Hi, I am in the same boat as you were; can you clarify a point for me because this is really doing my head in. :wallbash:
On point 2 (below) it says turn on the power, does that mean plug in, or take out of standby?
cheers
Thanks all, it's now working. Owe you all - big time. This is as detailed as I can go ( after replacing 4 caps ). The critical part seems to be the delay ( see point 3 ), thanks to Mike for this ( my name's Mike - a lot them around ).
1. Short out the eeprom pins 5 & 6 ( the two legs with the resistors ).
2. Turn on the power. - Instead of the usual noticeable relay click, you get a faint click, the backlight stays off, nothing else happens.
3. Wait around 1-2 secs ( anything longer than this NEVER seemed to work ).
4. Remove the short
5. Press info,menu,mute, then power - In that order individually, one at a time.
6. TV should come on with noise picture and the service menu.
7. Navigate to reset to go back to factory defaults and you're away....
Cheers again everybody - I was on the brink of giving in to Samsung....
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Hi great-kev
It means plug in at mains. Bear in mind that sometimes it takes a lot of attempts with your shorting link and plugging in the mains, to coax the set to fire up with backlights so that you can proceed to the next step.
Regards
John.
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Thanks for the quick reply John, just wanted to know I'm doing the right thing!
Also when I've released the short and press the remote sequence, i am not getting any acknowledgment on the TV of the key presses (usual led flash on the power button)
Should the backlight fire before i get to the remote sequence?
cheers
Kev
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Hi again great-kev
After plugging in and then releasing the short, leave the set to do its start up process with the standby led flashing. Hopefully the backlight will fire up. If not, repeat the process until it does. Dont think pressing the on/off button on the remote makes much difference to the outcome. The time the short is present seems important, generally release it 1-2 seconds after plugging in.
Best of luck
John.
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Seems to me its a lot easier to just change the eeprom..okay so I can solder and I've changed a few but at least the set works every time.
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Hi there.
I also have a le40r88bd model and had the clicking noises with no power, no freeview, acid colours in movie mode, and anything connected to scart sockets wouls leave a picture trail, i developed a way to got the set to turn on easily instead of waiting ages for it to power up itself. which was to simply hold down the power button on the tv's panel until it powered up, this method usually took about 15 seconds. then i discovered that if i were to turn the tv to tuning channel 1 before i powered off it would restart 1st time if turned back on within a few hours of powering down.
any way i was fed up of all these silly procedures and rang a samsung repair centre who said £50 callout fee well i refused to pay someone my hard earnt cash to tell me my set was broke when i allready knew it was. so i turned to the internet and found this site after trying everything here like like replacing capacitors and shorting i still had no luck. as i could get into the service menu but resetting didnt change any of the root settings. so i got a copy of the service settings and manually went through every setting and noticed they were all messed up so i changed the settings to the recommended ones and DIDNT hit reset after i just turned tv off and back on. at last i the freeview was back online, movie mode was back to normal and picture trails had gone. powered it down and woke up this morning to a tv that turned on first time. i dont know if this info will solve some of your issues but thought it was only fair to post the method i used as the methods i allready saw on here were what got me started. i was about to skip the tv. cost of repair was £1.90 and an hours tinkering. Thanks guys
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Hi, just letting you all know that samsung sent out an engineer, they couldn't repair it on site as the capacitors breaking had caused the micro processor to break, that was a Monday got it back on the Friday all working fine and courtesy of samsung
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hi all , i had this fault and have replaced the nessacary caps . i now switch on and the unit fires up with a white band around 4 inches high at the bottom of the screen. has anybody had this fault before?
regards pete
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Hi folks,
There's a thought about goods being fit for purpose, where known problems allow shops to rectify F.O.C after normal guarantee periods have expired.
Know of some, admittedly not with budget gear, but worth having a go perhaps - Chris.
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I followed the advice on this forum today and managed to save my Samsung LE40R87BDX. (For those who do not know the R86, R87 and R88 models are technically the same except for some cosmetic differences). I definitely recommend replacing the capacitors mentioned in this thread as I believe the EEPROM issue is a result of these faulty capacitors. This is a bit of a regurgitation of the information already on this thread but is how I did it.
The EEPROM chip is fairly easy to identify . It's on the underside of the main board (green board) has IC803 printed next to it along with EEPROM. If you look closely one of the corners of the chip will have a dot on it. This identifies the 'top' of the chip. The legs are numbered 1-4 running down the left hand side as you look down at it and then 5-8 on the right hand side running up the chip. In other words, in number order anti clockwise from 1. Therefore legs 5 & 6 are the bottom right two legs.
Initially I raised the main board and attempted to short these two legs with a screwdriver and this did not work. Probably because it was very awkward to do and I maybe slipped of the legs but anyway after many attempts this DID NOT WORK for me. What DID WORK was to solder a length of wire approx 5 inches long to each of the legs so I could re seat the board and short them with ease.
Now with everything back in place and screwed down correctly and my two wires freely available I shorted them.
I then plugged the TV in at the mains and did a count of 1,2 then opened the wires. In my case there was a lack of a click then a faint couple of clicks. The screen was completely dead but the power LED was solid now and not flashing.
I followed Mike's button selection of INFO, MENU, MUTE and then POWER on the controller.
Give it a few seconds to come on. According to Mike's post you can expect to see noise on the screen and the service menu. I was impatient and pressed the power button a second time, switching the TV back off before it had a chance to turn on. I then pressed the POWER button again and the TV came on. It came on to the freeview NO SIGNAL screen. If you are anything like me you'll just be glad the screen has come back on. I tested it by hooking up my PS3 via component cable and all was good.
I left the wires on the EEPROM chip and taped up the ends so they are there in case this ever happens again.
I hope I have been clear and that this is easy to follow. I am extremely grateful to everyone who contributed on this thread and just wanted to share my success story.
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Was able to start the set shorting pins 5 & 6 of the EEPROM as described, worked faultlessly during that day. even after ingterupting the mains for 1 hour, The next morning however the set failed to start again. Could it be the EEPROM?
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Hi Guys, wondering if any one could help me please, as described in forum i had the same symptons clicking noise and what not, so i open the back saw blown capacitors changed them popped everything back and yet still no luck a bit of more research and found out EEPROM could be corrupted did the shorting of the pin procedure and now i got the stable red light and tv comes on, HOWEVER i cant get into the service menu to do the reset nor am i getting any picture, i am getting sound with light grey screen and then it turns it self off after few mins and then back to clicking, could some on HELP please........................... what am i doing wrong? how to get into service mode...??
Thank You
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hi
try replacing eeprom ic with a blank one
charles hyde sell hem ,when replaced it will do
the set up procudure automatic
dave
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Hello Guys
Had 2 x 1000uf cap bulging in psu so replaced
Resetting eeprom would not work so had to take it out and flash with the working memory dump on here.
The tv then worked but the menu was getting corrupted on different functions eg the numbers went to nearly 200 when it should only go to a max of 100, and it would keep getting corrupted, also on Movie mode the colours was horrible other modes sometimes green picture or no colour
Anyway now I have a new blank eeprom to fit, do i put in memory dump first before fitting it or fit it blank, will i still need a manual to set up things or is this all done automatically
If I need a manual can anyone give me the information required to be entered into the eeprom
Regards
Tony.
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Hi
Tony,
With all the samsungs ive done there is no setting up to do, only the tuning
Brian
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Sorry Tony
To clarify - just fit the blank eprom
Brian
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Thank you Brian for the tips
Regards
Tony
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Hi can some one please clarify this for me, my Tv had bad capacitor i changed them but still had the clicking issue i try to short the eeprom i dont know how successful i was but the front stand by light is steady and when i turn on i get light grey screen with sound but no video nor isit going into the service mode, if i replace my EEPROM with a blank EEPROM, would this solve the issue, i saw EEPROM for sale on google. Really appreciate any help.
Thanks.
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IF YOU FIT THE CORRECT ONE YES READ
ALL THE PREVIOUS LISTING IT TELLS YOU
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Have followed this topic with great interest. Dependig how corrupt
the memory is always check the options. After 9 LE40R8XX I have found
that the options in Options table and Adjust is changing.
Sometimes only in Adjust. Perhaps someone could use the options I have
taken from a working set.
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Perhaps someone could use the options I have taken from a working set.
Cheers for those, they helped a lot! Had a LE40R87BD to fix which when powered on clicked once and then a popping noise could be heard. Once opened I then saw 2 x 2200uF bulging caps on the psu which I replaced with 35V ones but I'll replace all the usual suspects once I get some more caps in. Once this was done the tv was then clicking regularly so shorted pins 5&6 on the eprom, went into the service menu, set tuner to auto and then reset. The tv turned on and entered into the pnp setup mode. It couldn't find any analogue channels and didn't offer any digital tuning. Connected a freesat box via hdmi and the picture was quite dark and when i set the brightness up a bit the backlight seemed to flicker. I then turned it off, unplugged it and went out for a few hours. When I returned I tried to power it on again and just got clicking, arr dodgy eprom I thought and expected I'd need to change it.
But I saw your post and thought I'd try those settings, so I shorted pins 5&6 again went into service mode and entered the settings. This time the tv then gave the option to do a digital tune (but I didn't have the aerial cable plugged in at that point) and the picture from freesat seemed a lot brighter and didn't flicker. Turned it off and unplugged it and went to bed. In the morning I expected the clicking to be back, but it wasn't and the tv turned on ok. So I then hooked up an aerial and did a tune and both analogue and digital channels were found ok. Its been working ok when I've turned it on another couple of times during the day, unplugging it between tests. So I'm going to keep an eye on it now to see if the eprom is damaged long term or whether it just needed the settings you provided to kick it back into life and retain them.
Cheers for everyones help on this thread.
Rob
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:41:
OK PEOPLE, THATS IT!
NO MORE ON THIS SUBJECT
ALL THE INFO IS HERE
READ IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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WELL SAID
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Hi,
Thought that some months ago - amusingly haven't seen one yet in the local turkey recycling dept, cool guys are still swimming, sailing and still hopeful - Chris
Feel that makers should be responsible for decent usage - in the 50's is was some 30 years - just a thought.
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Hi been trying this lots, and i can only get a blank picture and the back lights on. Have i killed the eeprom possibly? I got picture once but no sound so tried resetting again, no luck since:/
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I am still trying to find EEPROM. My TV (lnt4671fx/xaa) has several chips look like that so very confusion. What should be written on top of this chip? So I don't short the wrong chip.
Thanks for your help!
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I had this issue on a friends TV that he picked up from the local tip for £25, I confidently told him to bring it over and I'd fix it.
I opened the TV up and the usual suspect caps had been changed, so I moved onto the eeprom reset, it took 20-25 attempts and then fired up.
I went through all the options without issue, but when I selected movie mode the image went a vivid green, like how I would imagine and acid trip would be - I tried the factory defaults - still the same.
I went into service mode and checked the config for the panel itself, there seemed to be lots of options, I noticed one of them was set to 26" - I changed this to the only 40" panel option, saved and restarted the TV - all working great now.
To the guy asking about the eeprom location: The eeprom is on the underside of the board (when viewed with the board bolted in) and it is in the lower corner on the outer side of the board
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Hi
Sorry to bring up this thread again, but I'm having the same problem. I've replaced the capacitors but it still won't turn on. I was wondering if someone could explain to me what is "shorting" . I've read both threads very carefully but I don't know what you mean by shorting the two pins. Also, you talk about removing the "short" after turning the power on - is this dangerous? (don't want to get electrocuted)
thanks for your help
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what is "shorting"
Shorting is basically joining two points of a circuit together with a conductor (wire, solder etc). In this case its the two pins on the eeprom and the best way I found to do it in this case is by soldering a length of wire between the pins. This is quite tricky if you are not used to soldering. To remove the short you just cut the wire i.e. break the connection and this is at low voltage so won't be dangerous. However there will be much higher voltages present on the PSU and inverters whilst you have the back off the tv and are completing this procedure so be careful.
Rob
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just change the eeprom ic
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If someone doesnt know what 'shorting' means, do you really think that person should be trying to repair a tv, even if it's his own. FFS pay the money and get someone qualified to do it. The internet has produced a load of DIY idiots not just in electronics but most trades
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If someone doesnt know what 'shorting' means, do you really think that person should be trying to repair a tv, even if it's his own. FFS pay the money and get someone qualified to do it. The internet has produced a load of DIY idiots not just in electronics but most trades
A tad harsh I think....
I think the chap knows what shorting means, but was looking for some context or a procedure to follow.
The fact he's changed the caps and got the polarity right tells me he's not a complete 'DIY idiot' - we all have to learn from scratch don't we??
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Hi, Sin-C5,
It's just that this one has been bubbling since failed V2's, and some folks think it tedious.
Me - well, switched to things more interesting some years ago -Chris.
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This post still has its use. I googled this very problem yesterday morning and found this thread.
My TV is 3 years and 2 months old. Prompted by the poster who rang Samsung and got a free repair, I thought I'd try my luck. This morning Samsung's engineer called and tried to fix the problem, he couldn't apparently because "whole board needs replacing". As a result the Samsung Engineer has taken my TV away for repair - if they cannot repair because "that particular board might not be available" then I will get a new TV.
My point in posting is to let people know it is still worth a call to Samsung if you encounter this problem with your LE40R88BD. Like I said....my set is over 3 years old and I'm getting a free repair or replacement.
Many thanks to this forum and to everyone who posted on this thread. I'm extremely grateful for your help.
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hi people of the Tv repair world done lots of these now caps +link on eprom nine out of ten work .
some times eprom still has data problems changed eprom part from CHS it works !!
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CARNT BELIVE IM GOING TO ADD TO THIS POST BUT HERE GOES
this is a bit of a tip for all my telly basher colleagues out there, I have noticed if the eeprom is duff and you don’t have a new blank one in stock you can take one off another board (doesn’t mater which model) and the set automatically overwrites it, also if you fit the duff one to another board (samsung) it will often overwrite it and get it working again.
give it ago, might save a few quid
daz
ps. still hoping ady ade logs on and deletes this topic.
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Sorry but when you can get an IC fron CHS for 67p, why would you want to put the duff one back in. Surely all TV repairers should keep 1 in stock. Last time I oredered I got 10 so that should keep me going for a while.
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hi
never seen ic for 67p at chs even for lots of 10
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my point being IF you ran out of stock you could take a good eeprom off a duff samsung pcb, doesn’t matter which model the pcb came out of as long as its the same eeprom and the set would automatically reprogram the eeprom. handy if the customers in a hurry.
as for putting a duff eeprom into another board, sometimes the eeproms aren’t duff just very badly corrupted, putting them into another samsung sometimes resets them and they work fine. WASTE NOT WANT NOT.
perhaps you could post the chs part code that gets the eeproms so cheap?
daz
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Hi Daz/Sparky, et al,
Feel at bit left out as have never seen one - maybe tomorrow, and those 67p chips seem encouraging - Chris
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Just search for 24c64 and its 1st in list..I used one on Saturday with no probs
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morning all i fit 24c256 eprom pre programed £5.00 is the 24c64 the same? this is cheep.
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there not the same,they normally come with the 24c256 fitted, interesting that the 24c64 works as they don’t hold any were near the same amount of data.will try one in then put it in the eeprom reader and see how full the chip gets, bit surprised, but if it works it would save a few quid.
daz
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It was the CHS rep who told me what to order and it worked for me tho it would be interesting to see how much info it holds.
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Hi folks,
Have to admit the first one came my way today. Did the caps, then reset the Eeprom. Initially forgot to check the tuner 'Auto' bit, and had a snowy aerial input nothing for a while.
Thanks to all those great 'Quuq' folks who have sorted this one, will pour them a drop of home-made Turnip wine, and drink many times to their continued health - Chris.
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would just like to thank all of you here who have helped me fixed my set its a very simple fix when you have you guys around all the very best ...david
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Hi again, Sammy folks.
Small matter - noticed that in 'Dynamic' mode picture was awful weak, 'Standard' was just the biz, and 'Movie' a bit like ('Fear and Loathing' -just for chaps who have quaffed, sniffed and still survive)'Digital'
Was checking manual for Eeprom thoughts for a simple remedy and got freaked - far worse than the old Vestel tube jobbies.
Sure some brain will know - Chris.
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I had an acid trip like screen in movie mode once, turns out the wrong panel was selected in the service menu, I chose the only 40" panel in the list and it cured it.
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Hi M/M,
Liked the trip but was it our Sammy - On the road - again - wicked at 70, but with a bike, Lotus-wise, with decent spanners, even worse.
Confess, it's probably easier to keep mending them-there tellies - Chris.
PS - If curious, read the books - might not help with tellies though, but current real life might just be enhanced with a touch of the 60's - confess, it did nothing later for Billy Butlin or those local 'Awful Decent' but twizzling turkeys.
Can't win 'em all, Sparky - Chris
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Hi again, Sammy folks.
Small matter - noticed that in 'Dynamic' mode picture was awful weak, 'Standard' was just the biz, and 'Movie' a bit like ('Fear and Loathing' -just for chaps who have quaffed, sniffed and still survive)'Digital'
Shhhh dont tell anyone but its probably the eeprom.
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OOps meant to reply not quote..duh :c023:
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Hi Monster M,
You were right of course - I thought that 'Factory default' would sort the Options, but it doesn't seem to and I found most of them wrong. Reset as per attachments and all OK at last.
Thanks again - Chris.
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hi
d'not forget to say thanks to daz he posted them months ago
saves some time or just replace eeprom ic
dave
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Hi Sparky and Daz,
Knew I hadn't thought it up meself, but forgot to note that Daz did the biz - sorry to anyone offended.
Shocked - Sparky, that you replace Eeproms willy-nilly with all your thoughts to saving your Pound/Euro, esp with current troubles - Euro-wise.
Admit, would have eventually gone that way if I had to, but I needed to discover where the prob was, and certain sites - although great - don't give a good follow up on common problems - Check this prob in any fault-found area, and you'll come up with nothing - we have to enjoy dozens of entries on this Sammy to get a clue.
To all - Thanks again - Made that pound - Now eating - But no Norfolk Turkies (weep) - But, only fer today - Chris
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hi chris
i don't change chip every time only when needed you will come across
a fault were you get sound, backlites lite ,but the screen will be dark,were you
get no osd the service menu will not be shown or it will still keep
clicking when you try to reset then you will need to change the chip
dave
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Hi Sparky and thanks,
Am cool on this biz, currently - having made a pound.
Will note your thoughts (Our Sparky) when next Sammy prob occurs.
Trust you have this listed in the Quuq Sammy LCD mending file - ?
Feel that some folks can take mending too serious - Our pension providers perhaps - ? Chris
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glad to hear you popped your samy r88 cherry, suprised it took you so long.
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H Daz and thanks,
Took a couple of days, but had to check the 'Home-made' between times - can go off if not checked daily.
One's dad said so, and so I believe - ever a 'Norfolk Man' - we might just smell a bit but - it's only the Herrings and Turkey entrails - honest - well, just a wee bit - Chris.
Think to attach some local stuff where a glass or several is the biz - natural for Norfolk - gave us Stephen Fry - took a hell of a while though - enjoy.
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Hi Monster M,
You were right of course - I thought that 'Factory default' would sort the Options, but it doesn't seem to and I found most of them wrong. Reset as per attachments and all OK at last.
Thanks again - Chris.
Excellent news, thanks for uploading your settings, I'm sure they'll come in handy.
I *think* these Sammys reset to the smallest panel so as to get the set going, then a quick tweak to the correct panel and you're good to go - I could well be, and often am, wrong haha
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Hi M/M,
Well said - pour a glass at some point - I usually do - Chris.
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OK read a lot about being able to short out two pins, and decided the risk of something going bang was too great. Took my TV down to a local repair shop and was advised this is a recognised fault and that Samsung would authorise the repair. I rang Samsung from the shop was given a repair code and 15mins later left with my TV fully working!
Many thanks to ISL Kettering who sorted this all out!
Hi all,
I found this site after doing a google search and have found some interesting info.
Basically i have a Samsung LE40R88BD which wont power on, just keeps trying to switch itself on then off with a clicking sound, i replace all 6 capacitors to no avail.
After reading on here the eeprom can become corrupted, i have found the eeprom 246C256BN.
I'm having trouble finding pin 5 and 6 to short as there are no numbers on the eeprom itself?
Any help appreciated
Thanks
Adrian
Ok
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I hope that every customer with a faulty Samsung doesnt read this..its hard enough to make a living. :41:
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:iagree:
Come on Mulja, delete this post, I know you have the power,
Sod consumer rights, daz needs a new pair of everything!
(Feel the spirit of Ebenezer welling up in side, tiz the season, bah humbug)
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google cache will keep the memory of this thread alive :72:
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:96:
right, googles on my list now!!!!!
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Hi Daz,
When the phone rings at those three hours past midnight you're bound eventually to come to Norfolk for that 'Tiny Tim' saving turkey - thousands do - we hate 'em.
This year - well we Norfolk's are all in 'Wattle' -bands - What with our local giblet saviour and also 'Billy(the knife) Butlin, note even the Archer's have current Turkey troubles.
Never listen - too depressing with all those 'Acorn Coffee' local accents - Chris.
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Hi All,
Many thanks for all the information already found about my faulty LE40R88BD tv. It had the classic bulging caps and corrupt EEPROM which have all been replaced. The unit now powers on, flashes up the screen with backligh for a second or 2 then the backlight shuts down. I can change channel but cannot see any image. Any ideas would be greta please.
Many thanks in advance.
Phil
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Hi Phil,
One for Daz I suspect, as he did the best Quuq biz and made some of us (rather small) fortunes - Chris.
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hi
could be eeprom i/c faulty try changing it
dave
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Hi Dave,
I have already changed all electrolytic caps in the power supply and the eeprom with brand new parts.
Best Regards
Phil
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hi
miss read posting look on inverter board check supply to
inverter and sm fuses
dave
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hi
try resoldering the inverter transformer on main psu, if that fails warm inverter up with hair dryer (sometimes transformers go thermaly sensitive) if that works replace transformer or inverter.
good luck
daz
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Hi Daz,
Many thanks for your reply.
I have reflowed and heated up the transformer but have had no luck I'm afraid.
The back light shuts down in two stages within a second and the channel number fades awayat the same time.
I have checked the small transformers on the inverter and they all show the same impedence accross them. Do you know if the 8 pin ic U101 on the inverter marked A358F is in facr a LM358?
Any more ideas would be gratefully received.
Many thanks once again.
Phil
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hi phil
is the inverter and the display shutting down? (check with a torch or connect scart to another tv )
check the power on voltage is coming from the av pcb to the power supply,
if this is going missing it may be an av pcb fault(they have been known to pack up),but if this is present and all the voltages are ok so your just loosing the backlight its more than likely the inverter is faulty (or a damaged backlight)
did this job just start out as a bellied cap fault(clicking)?
can not check the ic number as don’t have one in at the moment (there like buses)
check this lot out and get back to me
daz
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Hi All.
I had the same problem as this. Have now replaced capacitors from maplin, reset the eeprom by shorting out as described earlier.
I am really pleased the set is now working, but it still has the problem of not being able to view in movie mode(acid like image??!)
Am not really botherd, so long as it keeps working!! Just wonderd if anyine else had found this??
P.S Dont give up in resetting the eeprom. I screw it all back together then read it took 30 times for some of you!
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hi
change eeprom to cure fault it resets itsself
dave
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Hi,
Or check back to find Daz's info - clears the acid like a Rennie - Chris.
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Hi,
Or check back to find Daz's info - clears the acid like a Rennie - Chris.
sorry to be thick, but do you mean about checking the transformer with a hair dryer???
Many thanks for your thought and time.
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Hi,
No - had the prob myself where I shorted the pins, counted 'till 2 then ended up with the acid as you have.
Checked back through miles of back theads ('cos this one's a biggy) and discovered that our Daz (Quuq -Super-Hero/Bucky-ball/carbon/nifty/tights) had been there and done it - several times.
Impressed - Chris.
PS - If you can't be bothered to check back, can attach the Daz-Biz, but must duck flack from Sparky.
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hi
follow daz go into service menu and reset all the lines etc
dave
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Hi,
No - had the prob myself where I shorted the pins, counted 'till 2 then ended up with the acid as you have.
Checked back through miles of back theads ('cos this one's a biggy) and discovered that our Daz (Quuq -Super-Hero/Bucky-ball/carbon/nifty/tights) had been there and done it - several times.
Impressed - Chris.
PS - If you can't be bothered to check back, can attach the Daz-Biz, but must duck flack from Sparky.
Hi thanks. Just to let you know I have got rid of the acid! Went back into service mode and changed the panel size to 26" and also turned on the dbug mode. Have since reset and retuned and working!
Thanks again you guys, your are amazing, :08:
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:beer: :beer:
Thanks, going to give it another try shortly, do i leave it shorting for a while or literally a second?
SEems this is a normal problem/factory defect, my LN46A550 is 1 1/2 yrs old and doing the same. Paid 1700 u.s., Samsung said they'll send a service rep out to replace the caps thats it. anything else the guy decides to find I'll have to pay for, WE"LL SEE.
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Hi RJH,
$1700 is a soupcon more than I earn in the usual working day - getting out the old wood kayak and paddling furiously westwards with a few caps and a bit of wire - Chris.
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chris
put you cruiser away i think he means it cost $1700
to buy in first place all them dollars will send you
laa laa
happy new year
watch the turnip wine
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:beer: :beer:
Thanks, going to give it another try shortly, do i leave it shorting for a while or literally a second?
SEems this is a normal problem/factory defect, my LN46A550 is 1 1/2 yrs old and doing the same. Paid 1700 u.s., Samsung said they'll send a service rep out to replace the caps thats it. anything else the guy decides to find I'll have to pay for, WE"LL SEE.
If it's any consolation, Samsung were very helpful getting my clicking 40" LCD operational again. Not only was it made clear from the start that the repair would be free, the job was booked on New Years Day. A service centre called me on Tuesday morning to arrange the day and the TV was fixed at my home in less than 15 minutes. No fuss, no trouble.
If Samsung are consistent across the pond, there is no reason they shouldn't replace your PSU board free of charge. Good luck! :08:
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Hi Sparky, and thanks,
Was about to paddle from Norfolk with just 3 caps, some nifty bottles and a bit of wire,
Well, for that sort'a cash even a tight Brummie might venture - suggest Liverpool rather than Yarmouth, as from here, you have to get around the corner - either end - Chris.
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Same problem here!! but mine is a Samsung ps42Q96HDX Replaced all the capicitors as suggested, did not work, reset the EPROM chip, worked fine for 30 min or so and then switched off, and started clicking again. Turned the TV off at the mains for 10 min, switched on works for couple of mins and then starts clicking again. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
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try replacing eeprom chip
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Samsung ps42Q96HDX
start a new post dropping a diffrent model in this post is not helpfull
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How to find pin 1 on an ic:, if you can’t see the dot for pin1 either on the ic or the board (on the Samsung 40” lcd there’s an arrow) in 100% of cases if you look at the writing and can read it then pin 1 will be bottom left therefor pin 5 and 6 will be the top right ones.
A ps42q96hd is a Plasma, it isn’t known for having cap problems, it is however fantastically common to have either dd.’s on the psu (casing clicking) or for a fet or both fets to blow (causing no clicking).
Shorting an eeprom won’t always work and if it does may leave some odd faults on the set, if it does bring it out of stand by then it was the cause of the problem. If you’re unsure if it was corrupt, go into service mode and check the time the panel has run, if it is a low number then there’s been a problem in the past that’s caused the corruption
Regards
Andy
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Thanks for the great info on this site. I could not find a busted capacitor, so shorted the eprom for 1 second. Worked first time!
However, TV stopped working again some time later, so called Samsung. THEY ARE SENDING ENGINEER OUT F.O.C. to look at my 3 year old set!
So give them a try first I suggest.
I have attached (I hope) a photo of the eprom in question to help others find it.
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On the SP02 Version of the power supply
I thought I would share these lovely photos of the caps
I want to ask which caps are best to replace out of these lot?
all of them?
also is it best to replace them all with the exact same ratings? or different ratings to make sure they don`t go faulty again?
https://plus.google.com/photos/110008419772794244770/albums/5677592281366811105?authkey=CIvpgpnj7cOxIg
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Nice to see this thread back..we going for the record number of posters?
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I tried multiple times to reset the eeprom with a small screwdriver but wasn't making good contact and found solder wire of right size made a good contact just pushed against the 5 and 6 pins. Still took a few goes but eventually must have got time held against the pins right and the tv came on and just needed tuning, so it does seem that by multiple tries it will eventually work. I found it tricky soldering wires to the pins but just a length of solder wire held across the pins does work.
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Just wanted to make the effort to thank those involved in this thread. :c017:
I'd spotted the blown capacitors myself and replaced them, but the clicking continued, and I was on the verge of assuming that something further down had blown as well.
Advice on resetting the eeprom worked exactly as described - took about fifty attempts over an hour or so, but eventually the backlight popped on and I got into the service menu. I might have given up earlier had the advice on this topic not been so specific.
For resetting the eeprom, I used long wires and soldered them to the legs of the eeprom chip. From the discussion on the board it sounded like they would be super tiny connections, but they weren't all that scary when I got the AV board over. Needed to get the magnifying glass out, but that's more to do with my eyes! :)
Anyhow, thanks all. I don't know if the fix will last, but this ressurection was a fun little project.
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hi
nice to no it cured the fault saved youself a few pounds
dave
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morning all ;)
i had the same problem with mine ,
i changed the caps and had to reset eeprom before it kicked in ,
but the problem ive got is : AV & all HDMI's are NOT active ...
picture quality is perfect on analogue and Dtv but i need atleast AV activated for my daughters DvD ...
ive tried a few different settings off members on here and managed to activate Pc but still cant find which settings needs changed to activate the 1's i dont have ...
any help much appreciated ;)
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Hi all
I have a ps50b850y1fxxs with the same clicking relay problem. But I can't see any signs of capacitor failing. Also when it did work, it often increased the volume by itself so perhaps my issue is failing buttons on the tv? would the eprom short be worth trying without replacing the capacitors? if so which one and which pins?
Please Help!
Regards
John.
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:sign0144:many thanks to all, fix worked a treat. replaced the usual suspects (bulging caps)only to discover the clicking relay was'nt cured, found this thread, shorted eeprom as described in at least 20 posts in thread and voila, tv now working a treat, is this some sort of witchcraft?, anyway many thanks to the sole who first discovered this magic spell.
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This tread helped me repair a LE40R86BD.
When reading this tread I got the impression that most of you had okey picture after cap change. My picture was so bad so I suspected I had more severe problems.
My story:
1. Tv was clicking - backlight came on for a couple of seconds - no picture
2. I replaced 7 caps in the 5-12v area on the power supply board.
3. No change in behaviour
4. Did eeprom reset by shorting pin 5,6 as described.
5. TV came on and displayed a rainbow of vertical lines over the entire screen.
6 I suspected the eeprom was okey and that I had more severe problems on the t-con board.
7. Thought I anyway should give it a try with eeprom change and I fitted an Microchip 24LC256 (blank from store)
8. TV powered up and is now working perfectly!
I can confirm that Microchip 24LC256 eeprom is working fine if you can't find original atmel version.
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Hi, I hope you all don't mind me bringing this back up but I have to say a big thank you to all, this has been a very helpful and informative thread and now my R88 is back up and working once more. So OK it took over 2 hours of trying various combinations before it worked but hey, it's working so can't complain. I'd say though the only difference I employed from the usual
was to keep turning it on and off via the remote after about one second shorting the eeprom, on the fourth attempt it lit up and I had no need to go into the service menu, this of course was towards the end of the two hours(got fed up trying), so it's all there and working just fine, indeed it's been switched off at the mains and plugged back in a couple of times and it's still working just fine so thank you all once again, very helpful indeed, Andy.
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Hi, a similar problem here. I got a LE40R84BX which showed the same well known symptoms: Only a clicking relay, no picture, no audio. First, I replaced 16 capacitors of the power supply, but that didn't make any difference. Since the eeprom reset was also unsuccessful, I replaced the eeprom with a new 24C256.
Now the TV is starting up and I am able to do a factory reset. Unfortunately the TV switches off after approx. 10 to 15 seconds and after a few more seconds, I turns on again.
Any suggestions, where to continue the troubleshooting?
Thanks
Stephan
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I use to short pins 5 and 6 to chassis. Very hit and miss. I know keep a few blanks They are only a couple of quid on ebay not worth the hassle of shorting the pins. Couple of minutes to change a chip.
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Samsung LE40R88BD Clicking Relay. Anyone having difficulties after replacing the defective psu caps should keep in mind that fitting a blank replacment eeprom(24lc256 or higher if you wish eg, 24lc512) will be a better repair.Also to replace this chip is easy,you just swamp all eight pins with molten solder & off it comes,then use solder braid to remove the excess solder.On switch on the set will probably trip 2-3 times while it collects the data from the flash memory.These ics are available from "CPC" in Preston for less than £1.Hope this is of help.
With Thanks Graham Richards
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hi chaps, i had one of these samsung's in for repair the same fault, swollen caps change them shorted epprom out had to got into service mode, select option 8 retune tv in, had it on soak test for day and and half returned it to customer, she was happy hasn't bounced back, and that was last year, this was my first samsung with this fault, i'm not trying to be big headed or showing off, but i found it easy doing it this way, i suppose i was lucky on this one. good luck in your repairs
regards
shaun :051bye:
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Hi,
:sign0144:
Sorry to bring a old thread up but I have this issue now with my Samsung.
Relay was clicking to turn on and off in a continued sequence.
I opened the TV up and got a replacement board with new capacitors off ebay which has a 6 month warranty.
Fitted this and still have the relay issue. But the TV set did turn on the once and made its normal jingle with the message to check connections as it was on the HDMI source. (it turned on when I held the power button on the remote)
I turned it off and it would not come alive again, had its same relay click.
Now that I have read about the eeprom reset..... would this need resetting even though the TV did turn on?
This had me thinking because if the eeprom was corrupt, then how didd the TV set switch on?
Thanks for any help.
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Possibly , I have reset the eeprom and set switched on then went back to clicking , reset eeprom again and tv has been fine for over 6 months now
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Hello from germany and sorry for my bad english.
i have a samsung LE 37B679 TV
i changed all caps but the tv switch allways on and off, i hear the start sound, see the back light and no picture
so i think i must reset or change the eeprom but i don't find it.
can someone please tell me where i find the eeprom
many thanks to you
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Hi,
First off, I really appreciate all the great help in this thread! I've read all the info, but if someone could help me forward that would be greatly appreciated since I'm a bit stuck at the moment.
The original problem is of course the same (mine's a LE40R86 from 2008). I had two bulging caps, which I replaced. Powering on again I still had the click with no change. I found the eprom and soldered wires to pin 5 & 6, powered on and the broke the short. Clicking is gone and I have a solid red standby light. Yei, progress!
I press the info-menu-mute-power sequence (the blue light underneath the tv flashes with each button press). After the power button press, the blue light underneath blinks 5-6 times, then there's one click and then… nothing. Just the solid red standby light. At no point do I get backlight.
Any recommendations on where I go from here? Should I change more capacitors (these were the only ones that looked bad to me) or should I look to replace the eprom?
(attached is my after-picture, the two big ones are the new ones. Originals were 2200uF 10V and the new ones are 2200uF 16V.)
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Replace eeprom
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Thanks, I took your advice. Ordered a new EEPROM and got it today. Got to work on it immediately. I'm pretty much a newb to soldering, but I managed to both get the old one off and the new on eventually. Thought it looked pretty decent too, so I put everything together and powered up.
Faint click and the TV turns on! Just as I'm dancing my victory dance though, it turns back off again. And then on again by itself, it's on for about 30s, and then off again. Repeat. I try starting with the service menu sequence but same thing, while the service menu is open it goes to standby after about 30s and then on again. Tried with no input, with HDMI and with the antenna. No change.
Any idea on what could be wrong? It's definitely not unthinkable that I botched the soldering somehow... I'm really hoping that's not the case though.
Could it be some setting or initialization needed for the EEPROM that causes it to turn off?
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Hi,
Apologies for bringing up this old thread but just wondering if anyone can help.
I've got two LE40R87BD's on my bench, both having had the same fault (clicking) and both have had all the 2200uF and 1000uF caps replaced - no change - still clicking.
So I've soldered the requisite wires to the EEPROM and tried the shorting process. No luck so far. I've tried shorting, plugging in, then leaving the short on for anything from 0 to 20 seconds, removing it and then trying to power up. When I do, the TV clicks as it would, I use the power button on the set, you even get the slight beep that sounds like it's happy. However, the light stays solid and the set never gets past this stage.
Powering up without the short puts be back to square 1 with the clicking relays.
Can I confirm the process:
1. Short pins 5&6.
2. Plug in set.
3. After 1-2 seconds, remove the short.
4. Press Info > Menu > Mute > Power (or just power - or just press button on front of TV) - How long should the set take to come on at this stage if sucessful?
5. You're now in the service menu (the bit I cant get to).
I've also see other variants of the procedure, involving applying the short, plugging in, removing the short after 1 second, unplugging, then plugging back in - this doesnt get me anywhere.
Thoughts? I'm assuming it's something to do with the process as it's exactly the same on both sets.
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Try replacing eeprom
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Yeah, that's pretty much my next step. Just thought it was odd that both sets are in exactly the same state.
They're the 24L256 on this board right? I take it putting a clean EEPROM in forces the set to reflash it, rather than trying to trick it onto doing the same as per the short and power process?
Here's hoping!