Author Topic: techwood TWD 20 LC1  (Read 5270 times)

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OldLes

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techwood TWD 20 LC1
« on: March 19, 2014,14:22:28 »
Hi, I have a Techwood TWD 20 LC1. It has a separate PSU (12v@5A), with Vestel boards. Internal power board is 17AMP07-3, Main board is 17MB17-02, Signal board is 17SC07-2.
does anybody know the values of the fuses on the mainboard, F10 and F100?
Les.

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techwood TWD 20 LC1
« on: March 19, 2014,14:22:28 »

Keith

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Re: techwood TWD 20 LC1
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2014,03:56:07 »
Hi Les

If the fuses are SMD there should be a letter on them to indicate the value.


Keith

OldLes

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Re: techwood TWD 20 LC1
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2014,17:12:08 »
Kieth, I got the stereo microscope on the job today. I had been unable to make out what markings there were. One fuse (F10) appeared to just carry a 7, which does not fit in with the letter numbering system normally used. The other one (F100), green coloured, appeared to have a mark, but the microscope proved it was just missing green. Probably when it blew, as this is the O/C fuse.
Surely somebody has a (Vestel) manual?
Les.

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Re: techwood TWD 20 LC1
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2014,17:12:08 »

Turnip

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Re: techwood TWD 20 LC1
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2014,10:46:19 »
Hi Les,

Set is ancient so surely you could try something 5A or less. Recall years ago a six inch nail was useful for pointing out the problem with some folks, as one could then see where the smoke came from.

Natch don't use nails me-self, or even silver paper around a fuse, but it's nice to try isolate a problem where measurement doesn't offer a ready solution.

You have a dual microscope ? - still managing with an X10 lens on a bench-light flexi from the 70's - Chris.

OldLes

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Re: techwood TWD 20 LC1
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2014,04:49:52 »
Turnip, yes, in fact I did the "nail" thing yesterday. Well, two thin strands of a mains cable. Watching current on my PSU, rose from 30mA to 1.15A, but no backlight. Two fuses on inverter both O/C, so two more pairs of strands were applied. Screen lit up and menu displayed. Portable DVD player and scart lead gave good sound and pic. Dragged in an aerial from bedroom and tried to tune, but (as half expected) no Freeview. Half the tact switches on top panel O/C, so back on and it will be returned to amenity site for the next lucky "owner".
When I collected it, it was stood outside and wet, but it had obviously been very wet for a while before. Rust on tuner, but also on cover panel for inverter. I did not really expect much joy, but a minor challenge to keep the grey cells working.
I bought the stereo microscope (10Xs, 40Xs) back in the early '80s. At the time, I was fixing Gundig Tuner-IFs and tuning boards (who remembers the 29502-003-21 tuning board?) and they helped me locate all the dodgy dry joints. Once I learned how to solder them for a permanent cure, I found I could do a fairly quick and very reliable repair which I turned into a mail order business through TV mag. That plus local Grundig repairs plus 'scope repairs kept food on the table for a decade. Not too bad for an escapee from the pottery industry, cheesed off with top management.
Les.

Turnip

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Re: techwood TWD 20 LC1
« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2014,10:56:48 »
Hi Les,

Had forgotten those Grundig jobbies, well it was the 70's as I recall, where we also did those Pye CT200 I.F. panels with double-sided print, as they hadn't yet invented 'Print-through' I was amazed that soldered joints 1mm apart could part company, but they did - regularly.

There were also GEC double sided signal panels where print peeled off when it saw an iron approaching.

Made the pound though.

Noticed cheap USB endoscope microscopes on the Flea, where one might check elder problems between mending jobs - All fun - Chris.

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Re: techwood TWD 20 LC1
« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2014,10:56:48 »

 

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