17" sansung inverter

[OldLes]

Hi, I have started this as a new topic, but it is really in connection with my CCFL tester.
I recently scrapped a Samsung 17" LCD, as not worth wasting time on. For some reason, I saved the inverter board, but it now occurs to me it could be used for my tester. Unfortunately I did not make a note of the model number, but did read the date of manufacture as 2002. In fine print on the back it carries the nuber BN44-00056B, and a small paper label with CS0228, 016386A.  On the front, it has number SIC1542T  REV0.51.
I am (hopefully) attaching a photo. Can anybody identify the set, and perhaps a circuit. I will later ask in CCFL topic for advice on getting around its inhibit circuit.
OldLes.

[sabre504]

Hi think this is the right one
pinouts page 5

[OldLes]

Thanks Sabre, That seems the one.
I had already worked out the power + and - on the connector, and tied them off to red and black tails, and just have the three other wires. I now see one is unused, and the other two are active. I will study later, but may well need help.
If moderators wish to close this, I will comment further in my CCFL tester thread.
OldLes.

[Keith]

Hi Les,

You will need to connect a resistor, maybe 10k, from +12v to power on pin of the connector, but this inverter is for a small set so unless you remove the current sense and over voltage protection of the chip it won't drive larger tubes. It may not drive larger tubes even if the protection is bypassed as the voltage and current may be insufficient. I use one similar but only for sets up to about 20"

Keith

It is different to the one I use! But you still need to connect a resistor to the BL on pin of the connector. Just google the control chip to find the data sheet, then you can find the protection control pins and try to deactivate the protection. Sometimes simply grounding the pin is enough, but sometimes 300mV to 500mV needs to be maintained to prevent protection.
If you still have the original screen or back lights it will make it easier to test it.

[OldLes]

Kieth, I had worked out that pins 1, 3, 5-6, 8-9  were negative ground, and 10-12 were supply positive. Pins 2 and 4 look like inputs, whilst pin 7 is not connected.
Pin 4 looks to me to be the "switch on" input, not sure about Pin 2 yet.
I take your point about it being OK for up to say 20". Do you think two outputs could be connected in series?
The circuit parts on p 4 of Sabre's upload seem to be to enable circuit design for different CCFLs. I have enough test gear to check it all out in used ('scope, 1000:1 probe, current probes etc), so IF it was capable of driving different CCFLs, it would be possible to have a selector switch enabling each tube type, though that is probably too far for me right now.
Any more input very welcome for the deep thinkers here. Please?
OldLes.